Danao Climbing

Climbing

20220414-DSC04139.jpg
 

Photo by Nick Aguilos

  • Danao limestone is world-class and highly featured. Embedded in the copious white, black and yellow streaks, climbers will encounter holds of every variety. But the name of the game is often hidden pockets, coral fossils, and unique drip features, aka flowstone. The major cliff band, spanning the barangays of Togonon and Ibo, face west/northwest with some north facing cliffs and hidden sectors that offer shade nearly all day. As of early 2024, the route development has been centered on the west/northwest aspects, so that means during the November-February time period, the main cliff band comprising sectors Pocket Wall, Tookay and Monkey walls can be climbed comfortably in the shade until roughly 1:30 pm. However, the Dihedral Wall sector and all its sub areas are in the shade for nearly the entire day. Currently, the climbing in Danao favors the early risers in order to take advantage of the day’s shade window.

  • You can find the current list of routes here. Email danaoclimbing@gmail.com or send an Instagram message at @danaoclimbing to learn more.

  • Danao climbing proudly boasts being one of the first areas in the world to be developed exclusively at the onset with glue in bolts. The initial development was done using only Climbtech Wave Bolts with the occasional Legacy bolt, a removable expansion bolt. The original developer spent enough time climbing in southern Thailand to know that stress crack corrosion on coastal rock formations is a serious hazard and witnessed bolt failures along with the considerable labor that went into redoing the old expansion bolts with titanium glue in bolts. However, after nearly 10 years, it’s been determined that stainless expansion bolts are more than adequate in the Danao micro climate and now the developers of Danao are proud to be the first crag in the Philippines to equip with 316L stainless steel expansion bolts and hangers from Lappas Climbing–a Greek fixed hardware company whose bolts and anchors are being used in establishing and reequipping lines in famous areas such as Kalymnos, Leonidio, Kyparissi and other areas throughout Europe and beyond.

  • The bolting style in Danao is very thoughtful, with each clipping stance and act of clipping treated the same as a climbing move. So a climber can expect that cruxes are very well protected and shouldn’t expect any hero runouts. Every pitch is bolted with the ethos of “Bolt As If”. Bolt as if the leader could be at their limit and would want to protect themselves if possible at crux sections. The art of bolting a climb is hardly ever a 100% accurate practice, but the developers of Danao have done their best to equip some of the finest stone in SE Asia. Enjoy the high quality climbs as well as top-shelf protection.

  • Danao sport routes have a reputation for being long. Currently there are more than 10 routes that require more than a 60m rope to safely lower. A few pitches will stretch a 70m rope. In order to fully sample the scope of Danao climbing, a 70m is recommended. Also, because of the length of the pitches it’s advised to have around 20 quickdraws. Make sure to bring a headlamp for getting around at night!

  • Climbers are rightfully concerned with rain forecasts. However, storm cycles often provide the best climbing conditions in Danao. Rain forecasts, when there’s not 100% chance in the forecast, always guarantee 2 things: clouds and wind. Oftentimes, there is no rain at all or a minor sprinkle. Our advice is to be brave and gamble of coming to Danao even if there is rain forecasted. It’s likely you’ll be gifted incredibly cool climbing conditions.